How to Make the Sugar Paste
Body sugaring hair removal uses a 100% natural paste made of three simple ingredients: sugar, lemon and water. It is quite simple to make, the difficult part is to stop cooking at the right point. If cooked too little, it will be runny and will get stuck on your skin. If cooked too much it will be hard like candy. You may need a few tries before you get it right.
You will need:
4 cups white sugar
1/4 cup lemon juice (It needs the acid to stop the sugar from crystallizing. You may also want to try vinegar or lime juice)
1/4 cup water
Mix all the ingredients in a saucepan and cook on high stirring occasionally. Attach the thermometer to the pot and watch the temperature until it reaches 116°C (240°F). Remove from fire and let it cool down to about 40°C (104°F) before pouring into your container. Sugaring is meant to be used at body temperature, never use it hot or you may burn yourself badly.
Some candy thermometers in the market are not very accurate, so it may take a few tries before you get it right. I personally guide myself by time. I wait until it starts to boil (making bubbles) and set the timer for 3 minutes. When I remove it from the fire it has a very light color, however because of the contained heat it will keep cooking for a few more minutes and the final color is a reddish amber. This gives me a medium/light consistency which works pretty well in all body parts except for brazilian. You may also have to consider that the thickness and material of the cooking pan may influence the cooking time.
Cooking times will vary according with the climate and the part of the body you want to sugar. For hotter and humid weather you will need a thicker paste (cook it a bit longer, up to 121°C (250°F)). The longer you cook it, the harder the paste. The bikini area tends to be hotter than other areas so you will need a harder paste for it, or the sugar paste may melt in contact with the skin and you won’t be able to flick it off.
You may need to experiment with different temperatures until you find the right one for you. If you get it wrong there are ways to recuperate the sugar: If the sugar wax is too runny after it cools down to body temperature you can return it to the fire and let it boil for 1/2 a minute or 1 minute. If the paste is too hard you can gradually add 1 teaspoon of water, mixing and testing again until it reaches the desire consistency.
You may have to warm up the paste before use. You can use the microwave, but make sure you heat a little at a time. Try 30 seconds first, mix it around and see. If still too hard, do another 30sec. The less sugar you have in the pot the less time you will need to microwave. Be careful not to burn yourself and always remove the pot lid before microwaving. You can also put hot water in a bowl and rest the tub of sugar paste in it.
Unlike waxing, body sugaring hair removal tends to be a bit fiddly and it is harder to master. The sugar wax behaves differently depending on the humidity, room temperature, body temperature, etc; so it takes lots of practice to be able to successfully sugar. Check the body sugaring technique page before you start.